![]() ![]() “The quality of the fish here in America, and the quality of the rice, which is so important - was very different.” ![]() “In the 1970s, they didn’t have access to the same fish they were able to source in Japan,” he explains. Lalicon says what he and his partners do in their intimate Audubon Park digs would have been impossible in the era of the California roll’s creation. ![]() It was also about sourcing, says Lordfer Lalicon, one-third of the chef/owner team at Kadence, a nine-seat omakase experience lauded as the city’s most sumptuous sushi venue since it opened. “What I think many people forget is that sushi has undergone the same evolution as other immigrant cuisines that have come to America,” says Seito BP’s co-owner, Jason Chin, “which happened because those restaurant owners and chefs had a need to feed their families, to adapt what they made into something familiar enough for Westerners to eat.” This is nigiri, which many American fans have discovered on their journey through creative but very nontraditional offerings, like the best-selling bourbon salmon roll you’ll find on the menu at Seito Sushi Baldwin Park, a makimono which features not only cream cheese, but bourbon-bacon chutney amid its elements. There are debates about precisely where sushi landed when it hit North American shores, and which chef was first to fashion the now-ubiquitous California roll, but no one disputes the idea that what Westerners have come to think of as “sushi” is nothing like what they’d get on a foodie crawl in Tokyo, where sushi is defined by two major ingredients: the vinegared rice for which the dish is named and a simple serving of fish placed on top. ![]()
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